UC-NRLF 


5bl    bib 


How  TO  MAKE  A  SHOE. 


UNIVERSITY 

^^^ 
JNO.    P.    HBADLEY,    JR. 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 


ALL    RIGHTS    RESERVED. 


GIBSON  BROTHERS,  PRINTERS. 


Entered  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1882,  by 

JNO.  P.  HEADLEY,  Jr., 
in  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington,  D.  C. 
77".  5    -Z5^^c^_    «-t 


ft* 

Shoemakers  are  known  both  far  and  wide, 
As  men  who  always  cut  up  side — 
Horse  sometimes,  also  cow  leather. 
To  meet  the  changes  in  the  weal 
Sheep  and  goats  are  often  slain; 
Both  unite  to  make  it  plain 
That  sheep  is  used  for  lining  nice, 
When  goat  alone  would  not  suffice ; 
Just  so  with  calf  as  well  as  kid. 

Some  use  these  linen-lined, 
And  think  it  quite  the  best,  for  those 

Who  feel  themselves  refined. 
Eefined  or  not,  we  think  it  true 

Our  feet  need  some  protection ; 
To  do  whate'er  they  have  to  do, 

We  make  our  own  selection. 
Select  at  all  times  the  best  we  can, 

Both  of  shoemakers  as  well  as  shoes, 
This  is  much  the  better  plan, 

And  learns  us  how  to  choose. 


INTRODUCTION. 


The  Author  of  the  book  in  hand,  having 
passed  through  the  various  scenes  through 
which  he  would  accompany  his  readers,  was 
prompted  to  make  this  offering  to  the  craft 
and  the  public  in  order  to  relieve  his  mind  of 
the  thoughts  had  upon  the  subject  of  making 
shoes,  as  well  as  to  contribute  something  of  a 
literary  character  which,  in  the  broad  range  of 
possibilities,  may  become  useful  as  a  text-book, 
or  family-book,  for  those  who  may  feel  inter- 
ested in  making  or  wearing  shoes,  and  perhaps 
lead  to  something  better.  Realizing  the  im- 
perfections and  shortcomings  of  the  human 
family,  to  some  extent  at  least,  no  claim  beyond 
that  which  you -are  disposed  to  put  upon  it  is 
held,  so  that  any  communication  will  be  gladly 
received  and  noted.  This  opportunity  is  also 
taken  to  express  thanks  for  some  valuable  sug- 
gestions from  the  U.  S.  Bureau  of  Education, 
and  others,  concerning  the  publication  of  this 
little  volume,  and  in  its  present  shape  you  are 
invited  to  read  and  make  the  best  use  of  it 
you  can. 

AUTHOR. 


The  subject,  seated  on  a  chair, 

One  knee  the  other  to  rest, 
Has  his  measure  taken  fair, 

The  foot  at  ease  is  best. 
The  Artist  views  the  foot, 

And  straightway  takes  the  len 
By  measuring  it  from  heel  to  toe, 

His  size  brings  content. 
From  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  long—  Q 

This  stick  has  many  sizes; 
Three  to  the  inch  is  now  our  song, 

Subject  to  compromises. 
Some  feet  have  long  toes  behind — 

In  the  language  of  the  craft; 
These  are  not  so  hard  to  find, 

And  oft  to  us  been  waft. 
Our  Artist  here  will  best  succeed, 

If  a  little  head  he  can  measure, 
For  out  of  that  comes  very  much 

To  make  the  feet  a  treasure. 


Next,  around  the  heel  a  strap  we  bring, 

To  the  centre  of  the  curve, 
A  leather  or  linen  strap  is  used, 

And  don't  affect  the  nerve. 

The  marks  on  this  an  inch  represents, 
Also  fractions  of  inch  preserved  ; 

When  made  complete  it  then  presents 
An  appearance  well  deserved. 

Around  the  heel,  I've  already  said, 

But  that  is  not  quite  so ; 
For  around  in  part  and  through  instead 

Will  make  it  more  the  go. 

Now  let  us  here  make  up  our  minds, 
If  this  trade  we  would  study,  ' 

That  the  craft  is  subject  to  many  fines 
If  the  subject  gets  very  muddy. 


With  strap  in  hand  the  instep  measure  — 

Be  sure  you  get  it  right  ; 
For  at  this  place  some  have  a  treasure, 

Which  prompts  them  oft  to  fight. 

A  little  lump  we  will  it  now  call, 
Not  knowing  the  exact  name  of  it  ; 

Nor  let  our  strap  the  least  bit  fall, 
But  measure  just  above  it. 


When  we've  done  this,  and  done  quite  well,. 

Another  move  will  follow, 
Which  takes  us  nearly  on  the  ball, 

And  brings  us  from  the  hollow. 


^^    OF   THE          ^ 

UNIVERSITY 


From  the  hollow  now  we've  just  come  out, 

With  strap  in  hand  to  take 
The  measure  neat,  near  on  the  ball^ 

So  that  our  fits  won't  shake. 

If  they  should  shake  the  remedy  comes, 

A  false  sole  we  do  make, 
To  please  our  subjects  at  their  homes 

The  soles  we  there  do  take. 

Onward  now  the  way  we  press, 

And  move  along  just  so, 
Until  we  reach  the  part  well  known 

To  bq  the  toe,  the  toe. 


This  is  the  place  of  which  folks  do  talk, 

If  there  is  any  pressure, 
Because  they  cannot  easy  walk, 

The  shoey  missed  the  measure. 

Just  below  the  ball,  across  the  toes, 
Is  where  we  next  are  found  ; 

For  there  is  nothing  worn  like  shoes 
When  used  upon  the  ground. 

From  here  we  feel  like  soaring  higher, 

And  soon  get  at  the  ankle, 
Which  must  be  fit  to  suit  the  buyer, 

Thus  avoiding  any  wrangle. 


The  ankle  reached,  we  then  with  care 

Measure  neat  and  true  ; 
If  anything  is  noticed  there, 

'Twill  surely  be  the  shoe. 

That  notice  is  just  what  we  want, 
From  that  we  get  our  living  ; 

And  if  we  make  a  miss  on  that, 
It  might  be  past  forgiving. 

From  toe  to  ankle  we  have  come, 

With  an  uncertain  height, 
And  with  the  measures  we've  put  down 

Will  now  add  that  right. 


To  have  the  height  right  is  our  aim  ; 

Some  like  shoes  high,  some  low  ; 
But  to  have  them  fit  is  all  the  same, 

And  this  we  try  to  show. 

Some  in  one  way,  some  in  another, 
These  measures  have  been  taken, 

Until  we  have  them  all  together, 
We  should  not  try  to  shapen. 

To  work  now  by  our  measure  marked 
Will  be  our  constant  aim ; 

A  pattern  must  be  cut — 
To  start  with  that  is  plain. 

/ 
Bat  plainer  still  the  shoe  will  be 

From  the.  pattern  we  shall  cut, 
Because  we  think  you'll  all  agree 

What's  opened  should  be  shut. 


Before  our  eyes  the  patterns  come, 

The  shapes  are  clearly  seen, 
A  vamp  and  quarter,  with  a  tongue, 

Worked  just  in  between. 

A  stiffening  of  sole  has  found  its  way, 

And  asks  that  it  be  shown, 
In  order,  at  some  future  day, 

Its  use  might  be  made  known. 

The  parts,  you  see,  stand  thus  alone, 

But  have  a  close  relation  ; 
Because  these  parts  must  all  be  shown 

To  keep  their  proper  station. 

One  part  not  seen,  in  shape  the  same, 

Is  cut  and  called  the  lining, 
Upon  which  each  quarter  must  be  placed  - 

We'll  not  stop  here  defining  — 


But  show  in  this  cut,  if  you  please, 

The  lining  a  little  larger, 
With  the  quarter  pasted  on  it  smooth^ 

If  not  there'll  come  a  charger. 

The  vamp,  also,  has  been  changed, 

Only  one-half  appears, 
The  cause  of  which  can  be  explained 

In  less  time  than  number  years. 

When  we  the  lower  corners  take, 
And  match  them  well  in  fact, 

The  centre  we  at  once  do  make, 
Which  guides  the  following  act — 

23 


The  act  of  uniting  quarter  and  vamp, 
With  paste  or  cement  for  sewing, 

Is  done  with  care,  as  in  this  cut, 
The  fitness  of  things  is  showing. 

The  centre  mark  on  the  vamp  we'll  use, 
To  get  the  quarters  placed  best, 

By  putting  the  vamp  upon  the  two, 
One-half  inch  above  to  rest. 

One  end  is  reached,  but  not  the  last ; 

This  end  from  flax  or  cotton 
Is  made  by  some  men  very  fast, 

If  the  flax  is  not  too  rotten. 


The  work  which  we  have  now  passed  through 

Could  all  be  done  by  standing, 
Having  a  board  to  cut  upon, 

And  one  the  paste  commanding. 

But  now  we  wish  the  scene  to  change, 

And  begin  the  ending  act ; 
Which  conies  first  to  him  who  would  arrange 

The  threads,  indeed,  intact. 

We  roll  the  thread  upon  our  knee, 
To  untwist  and  break  with  ease, 

And  place  the  cords,  one,  two,  and  three, 
So  that  the  points  are  formed,  if  you  please. 


By  having  the  points  one  below  the  other, 
The  thread  kept  free  from  a  knot, 

We  will  avoid  whate'er  there  is  to  bother, 
While  the  past  may  be  forgot. 

We  will  let  that  be  just  as  it  may, 
If  wrong  we'll  try  and  mend  it ; 

For  surely  there  will  come  a  day 
When  after  awl  we'll  send  it. 


r 


-Sb^,, 


With  the  thread  arranged,  as  we've  described, 

Twisting  is  quite  in  order ; 
The  figure  now  shows  us  a  how 

To  twist  it  hard  and  harder. 

When  one  side  is  twisted  hard  enough, 

We  simply  take  the  other, 
And  do  the  same  thing  over  again, 

So  that  the  threads  are  worked  together. 

Before  the  ends  are  entirely  free, 

One  thing  around  us  lingers, 
We  take  the  thread,  three  or  two  in  one, 

Around  our  left-hand  fingers. 


A  large  round  awl  is  just  the  thing. 
To  do  what  we  call  milling; 

Two  or  three  trips  are  sure  to  bring 
From  fingers  to  foot  the  filling. 


Now  our  thread  is  very  smooth, 
But  we  try  to  make  it  smoother, 

By  using  a  piece  of  cloth  to  rub, 
When  done,  free  all  together. 

Something  now  is  sought  that 
Commonly  known  as  wax; 

And  often  one  gets  in  afix 

When  he  finds  it  with  the  tacks 


But  wax,  not  tacks,  is  what  we  want, 
To  make  our  thread  quite  nice ; 

We  catch  it  in  the  middle, 
And  to  the  end  wax  thrice. 

Each  time  waxing  briskly, 
Not  stopping  on  the  way, 

For  if  we  do  we'll  miss  it, 

And  perhaps  will  have  to  stay. 

Our  wax  should  be  in  season, 

Soft  wax  in  winter  use — 
Hard  wax  in  summer-treason, 

Holding  together  our  shoes. 


A  fine  point  now  we're  about  to  make ; 

This  part  should  be  waxed  better, 
So  that  the  bristle  we  may  take, 

Shall  stick  like  the  stamp  of  a  letter. 

Well  stop  here  about  the  thread, 

To  take  a  little  whistle, 
Until  we  find  a  pair  to  suit, 

Then  begin  to  bristle. 


The  bristles  with  care  have  been  selected, 

In  keeping  with  the  thread, 
In  this  case  we  feel  protected, 

Because  the  hog  is  dead. 

From  Russia,  we  are  told,  the  best  bristles 
come, 

But  cannot  tell  you  why, 
The  hairs  upon  our  hogs  at  home 

Are  not  so  good  to  buy. 

39 


The  union  of  thread  and  bristle,  now, 

Will  keep  us  to  our  text, 
For  from  this  you'll  no  doubt  see 

What  is  coming  next. 

The  bristle  is  split  a  little  o'er  half  way, 

In  the  left  hand  has  its  place, 
Between  the  finger  and  thumb  to  play 

An  important  part  in  the  race. 

One-half  over  the  forefinger  you  see, 

Held  in  place  by  the  next, 
The  thread  and  bristle  both  agree 

To  be  thus  placed  is  best. 

Do  not  S2)lit  but  roll  it  on, 

Some  have  said  and  done, 
By  waxing  the  bristle  where  the  other   is 
split, 

And  continued  from  sun  to  sun. 


Now  either  way  to  start  will  do, 
As  much  depends  on  twisting, 

The  hairy  part  is  left  for  you 
To  make  sort  of  whisting. 

Back  to  the  scene  from  whence  we  came, 
With  our  end  in  place  to  hasten, 

Make  a  hole  quite  through  the  thread, 
The  point  pass  through  and  fasten. 


So  much  about  the  bristle  said, 
No  doubt  you'll  think  it  strange 

That  needles  are  not  used  instead — 
Some  have  tried  the  change. 

They  may  be  used  with  good  effect, 
In  sewing  through  and  through  ; 

But  when  we  use  a  crooked  awl, 
The  bristle  stands  by  true. 


One  more  remark  about  the  end 
We  thus  have  kept  in  view, 

To  find  the  middle  is  the  thing 
Now  left  for  us  to  do. 

Not  very  hard,  but  easy  quite ; 

In  the  left  hand  even  joints — 
The  right  hand  holding  the  other  end, 

This  fills  up  all  the  points. 


Another  change  in  things  takes  place, 

This  time  the  clamps  appear ; 
Between  the  knees  they  run  their  race, 

And  hold  the  upper  dear. 

The  vamp  and  quarters  as  they  were  pasted, 

Are  seen  now  in  their  place ; 
The  vamp  extending  above  the  clamps, 

With  the  quarters  easy  to  trace. 

Begin  to  sew  at  extreme  end  ; 

Put  left-hand  bristle  first  in ; 
Across  the  vamp  our  sewing  extend, 

Two  rows  that  may  be  seen. 

49 


This  nicely  done,  just  change  a  little ; 

The  position  is  clearly  seen 
When  we  have  this  quarter  stitched  near  the 
back, 

Say  half  inch  in  between, 
Pull  through  one  thread  and  tie  it  tight, 

On  the  inside  to  be  left ; 
Begin  to  sew  the  other  quarter, 

Close  at  the  vamp  is  right. 


Sew  to  the  baek,  and  then  begin 

Another  row  up  the  front ; 
Sew  to  the  top,  'twill  be  no  sin, 

But  the  doing  of  what  is  wont. 

These  rows,  half  an  inch  apart, 
Will  serve  the  present  state, 

Because  now  we  have  a  splendid  start, 
And  getting  on  first  rate. 

Then  down  the  front  on  the  other  side, 
To  the  vamp  be  sure  to  go ; 

Never  allow  your  work  to  slide, 
But  take  it  out  just  so. 

53 


The  front  is  sewed,  the  back  is  not, 

But  it  will  be  very  soon  ; 
This  must  never  be  forgot, 

As  it  takes  up  part  the  room. 

The  out-sides  together  at  the  back  are  seen, 

As  we  are  about  to  sew 
A  little  strip,  put  in  between. 

To  make  it  stronger  grow. 

Down  to  the  bottom  we'll  sew  the  way, 

Until  it  is  complete ; 
Then  trim  the  seam,  and  rub  it  well 

With  a  bone  found  on  the  seat. 

55 


You  will  observe  the  back  is  changed, 

The  linings  are  together ; 
This  can  be  quite  well  arranged 

By  whipping  down  this  leather. 

Either  whipping  over  and  over,  or  through 
and  through, 

Just  as  the  case  may  be  ; 
Neither  way  is  very  new 

As  we  may  clearly  see. 

But  we  should  do  it,  and  rub  down  flat, 

For  now  the  time  has  come 
When  we  have  had  enough  of  that, 

And  our  upper  is  near  done. 

57 


The  upper  has  now  its  right  side  out, 

"  Right-side  out  with  care  ;  " 
A  little  stitching  at  the  top  of  the  back 

Will  make  it  look  quite  fair. 
We  stopped  stitching,  you  remember  wellr 

Before  we  reached  the  back, 
When  on  the  quarters  we  did  dwell, 

And  left  a  vacant  truck. 


That  track  now  is  filled  up  well, 

Yet  we  do  hold  it  fast, 
Knowing  that  a  time  will  come 

To  put  it  on  the  last. 

Before  that  time  is  reached,  however, 

The  eyelets,  bear  in  mind, 
Should  each  be  put  in  proper  place, 

So  that  the  holes  we  find 
Will  let  the  strings  pass  easily  through, 

When  punched  and  set  in  straight ; 
We  have  now  the  upper  for  our  shoe, 

Do  try  and  make  the  mate. 


This  upper  completed  by  the  past, 
Has  made  it  much  a  treasure, 

For  we  must  also  have  a  last, 
And  fit  it  up  to  measure. 

Since  we  have  kept  our  seat  so  long, 
A  change  may  rest  our  back ; 

So  at  the  bench  we'll  take  our  stand, 
Close  by  our  friend,  the  jack. 

The  Bailey  jack  is  the  name  of  this 
One,  screwed  down  upon  the  post; 

For  general  use  it  will  not  miss, 
But  serve  our  end  the  most. 

63 


64 


Toasts  are  made  of  many  woods, 

Of  ash,  of  oak,  and  maple  ; 
Well  seasoned  is  this  stock  of  goods, 

Some  kinds  are  very  staple. 
Some  are  made  with  iron  plates, 

To  clinch  the  screw  or  nail, 
But  when  we  would  a  peg  shoe  make, 

To  use  these  plates  would  fail. 
Made,  also,  for  men  and  boys, 

Women  and  girls,  for  each 
Has  on  this  art  a  special  claim, 

Their  feet  to  train  and  teach. 
To  dwell  here  longer  would  not  do, 

The  last  we  want's  in  the  hand ; 
We'll  measure  the  same  as  we  did  the  foot, 

And  thus  our  trade  command. 
The  length,  you  know,  is  measured  first ; 

Two  sizes  added  on 
Will  make  the  toe  so  comfortable, 

WTe  should  like  to  sing  a  song. 
65 


The  heel  we  reach  in  perfect  order, 

And  leave  the  measure  neat ; 
Some  shoes  are  made  which   look  much 

broader 

When  put  upon  the  feet. 
67 


The  instep  now  we  see  again, 

And  measure  as  before, 
One-half  inch  off  will  answer  us, 

No  less,  and  not  much  more. 
For  if  we  do  we  are  apt  to  find 

The  place  where  shoes  do  pinch ; 
Across  the  ball  we're  now  inclined, 

Still  measuring  by  the  inch. 


This  is  at  times'  a  tender  spot  r 

Bunions  develop  there  ; 
And  when  they  do  'tis  not  forgot, 

We  may  be  e'er  so  fair. 
One-quarter  size  we  leave  off  here, 

As  on  our  way  we  go, 
Travelling  on,  without  a  fear, 

Until  we  reach  the  toe. 


Another  quarter  we  would  say, 
At  this  point  we  may  drop, 

For  we  are  now  quite  far  away 
From  the  ankle  and  the  top 


But  further  yet,  we  are  boun 
The  bottom  must  be  reached,  \ 

Where  soles  are  made  and  often  saved, 
'Though  the  saver  be  impeached. 


The  last  we  put  upon  a  side 
Of  white  or  red  sole  leather, 

And  mark  with  knife,  or  pencil  wide, 
The  parts  of  sole  together. 


The  parts  are  known,  each  one  defined, 

Inner  and  outer  sole; 
A  middle  one,  when  we  are  kind, 

Lifts  and  shank  piece  make  the  whole. 

73     - 


The  inner  sole  on  the  last  is  put, 
The  pegs  just  where  you  see 

Keep  the  sole  where  it  belongs, 
In  order  to  agree. 

The  edge  is  bevelled  from  heel  to  heel : 
The  mark  across  the  breast 

Shows  us  when  and  where  we  mav 
Take  a  little  rest. 


The  upper  straight  upon  the  last, 
With  the  seams  appearing  right, 

The  stiffening  smooth  just  at  the  back, 
Will  draw  upon  our  sight. 

This  should  be  done  when  we  begin 

To  draw  the  upper  over, 
So  that  the  last  in  all  its  parts 

Shall  have  a  proper  cover. 

77 


Draw  steady,  until  we  have  it  close 
At  the  heel  and  at  the  toe ; 

If  these  parts  should  be  too  loose 
It  would  nearly  spoil  the  shoe. 


Draw  steady,  or  you'll  make  a  crack, 
Which  will  there  remain  ; 

Perhaps  may  cause  us  to  go  back, 
And  do  it  over  again. 

79 


80 


The  upper,  in  the  way  described, 

Drawn  gently  at  the  toe, 
We  hold  it  down  with  our  left  thumb, 

While  &pey  we  try  make  go. 

On  either  side  of  the  toe  now  work, 
And  in  the  same  way  fasten 

The  upper  down  upon  the  sole; 
To  the  heel  we  now  must  hasten. 


Let  the  upper  at  the  seam 

Have  now  a  secure  tack  ; 
The  stiffening,  all  straight  in  between 

The  lining  and  the  back. 
Be  "sure  you  get  the  lining  smooth, 

The  part  inside  the  shoe  ; 
If  it  is  not,  you  may  sometime 

Have  a  thing  to  make  you  blue. 
83 


Now  put  the  shoe  upon  the  bench, 
In  the  way  shown  in  the  cut ; 

And  with  a  string  and  button 
Use  care  to  close  the  front. 

We  no  doubt  now  do  see  the  thing 

Taking  on  a  shape, 
Which,  in  the  end,  will  surely  bring 

Us  clear  out  of  the  scrape. 

85 


The  shoe  is  now  placed  on  the  jack/ 
A  hole,  for  the  pin  in  the  last, 

Serves  to  keep  the  same  intact, 
While  the  toe  piece  holds  it  fast. 

Now  at  the  breast,  draw  over  outside, 

Close  upon  the  sole  ; 
Take  your  time,  for  something's  gained, 

While  filling  up  the  hole. 

The  awl,  you  see,  should  not  be  large ; 

In  lasting  use  small  pegs; 
Just  drive  them  through  the  inner  sole, 

No  danger  of  your  legs. 

87 


We  will  now  note  the  difference : 

The  inside  shank  is  longer ; 
If  we  would  last  it  very  smooth, 

We  must  pull  all  the  stronger. 
The  thumbs  at  this  are  very  clever, 

When  their  part  is  nicely  played, 
Serving  as  a  splendid  lever, 

While  working  in  the  shade. 


We  are  now  at  the  inside  ball — 

Be  careful  not  to  scratch  it ; 
When  in  position  we  are  found 

We  are  more  apt  to  catch  it. 

When  this  we've  caught,  and  feel  safe  to  leave 

For  the  other  side, 
We'll  find  the  heel  where  the  toe  has  been, 

By  this  we  must  abide. 


Everything  quite  in  its  place, 

The  future  for  us  yet ; 
Let's  last  the  upper  all  around, 

'Till  at  the  toe  we  get. 

Still  using  awl  mpincer  hand, 

Alternating  endly, 
For  at  this  post  we've  taken  stand 

To  grow  up  very  friendly. 

93 


The  toe  has  crimps,  some  in  the  heel ; 

The  first  is  more  important, 
Because  the  toe  is  always  seen ; 

If  rough  becomes  discordant. 

These  crimps  are  made  from  left  to  right, 

And  right  to  left  we  go  ; 
Then  scallop  them,  when  to  be  pegged, 

Not  so  when  it  we  sew. 


The  shank  piece  in,  the  bottom  filled, 

With  crimps  cut  as  was  said, 
Already  for  the  middle  sole, 

Which  forms  an  even  bed, 
On  which  we  lay  the  outer  sole  / 

The  thing  we  look  for  next, 
Is  moulded  near  the  upper  close, 

And  comes  quite  near  our  text. 

97 


The  middle  sole  will  make  us  have 

A  better  understanding, 
And  help  protect  our  feet  from  frost, 

While  we  the  trade  commanding. 

A  strap  is  used  around  the  foot, 

The  shoe  upon  the  knee; 
To  mould  the  sole,  as  we  have  said, 

These  parts  should  all  agree. 

99 


When  moulded  good,  edge  full  from  last, 

Trim  the  sole  prepared  ; 
Then  make  a  line  for  pegs  to  go, 

For  in  this  we  have  shared. 

We  to  our  old  friend  jack  make  haste, 
With  our  awl  and  hammer  bright ; 

Begin  to  peg  on  the  line  we've  marked — 
Six  to  the  inch  is  right. 


Two  rows  around,  just  in  between, 

Each  other  they  are  put ; 
Use  them  long  enough  to  go  clear  thro 

But  save  them  from  the  foot. 

The  awl-hand  picks  up  the  pegs, 
The  hammer-hand  now  takes, 

Between  forefinger  and  the  thumb, 
And  for  the  hole  it  makes. 


By  repeating  this  we  soon  shall  have 

Our  work  ready  for  a  lift ; 
But  first,  smooth  pegs  and  trim  heel-seat, 

Or  we'll  move  along  too  swift. 


The  first  lift  on,  we'll  leave  it  full, 

Making  the  centre  level ; 
With  our  knife  in  hand,  not  very  dull, 

We  are  prepared  to  bevel. 

In  this  way  the  heel  is  built, 

One  lift  upon  the  other  ; 
Pegging  each  will  add  no  guilt, 

But  save  our  subject  bother. 

Piece  by  piece,  until  we  stop 

At  the  proper  height ; 
A  solid  piece  used  for  the  top 

Will  make  it  finish  right. 


Nails  are  driven,  both  iron  and  steel, 

Around  the  top,  in  mind, 
And  on  the  outside  some  prefer 

A  few  more  nails  to  find. 

Hammer  solid  both  heel  and  sole 

Level  as  it  can  be  ; 
Whittle  the  heel  down  to  a  size 

Close  to  the  nails  you'll  see. 


The  heel-shave  is  a  tool  so  good, 
To  smooth  the  heel  up  nice  ; 

For  when  around  it  you  have  gone, 
Its  work  will  here  suffice. 

Cut  down  the  breast,  make  it  square, 
Sand-paper  it,  if  you  please  ; 

Then  change  position  very  fair, 
And  done  with  perfect  ease. 


Take  out  the  welt  with  a  knife  to  suit, 

Do  not  cut  the  upper  ; 
This  same  thing  is  done  to  the  boot, 

And  neither  has  to  suffer. 

These  tools  are  bought  in  stores. 
Known  to  the  craft  as  "  finding  ;" 

Some  are  here  from  foreign  shores, 
Which  serve  us  a  binding. 


A  small  knife  take,  and  trim  the  edge 
From  the  heel,  around  the  toe, 

Down  to  the  heel  on  the  other  side — 
Our  shoe  begins  to  show. 

The  bottom  buffed,  all  but  the  top, 
Sand-paper  all,  now,  we  think  ; 

Just  mark  a  place  across  the  shank 
To  be  blackened  well  with  the  ink. 


The  bottom  in  this  shape  has  come, 
And  looks  as  if  we've  parted  ; 

But  that's  not  so,  as  we  well  know 
We  are  nearer  than  when  we  started, 

The  ink  when  burnished  with  hot  kit — 
A  little  heel  ball  is  the  thing 

To  use,  so  that  it  will  be  fit 
To  put  upon  a  king. 


n6 


Our  jack  and  company  seen  again, 
The  last  time  for  the  present ; 

To  part,  perhaps,  will  give  us  pain  ; 
Perhaps  be  very  pleasant. 

A  burnisher  for  the  heel,  behold  ! 

Use  briskly  when  we  finish, 
For  this  tale  is  nearly  told, 

Its  parts  seem  to  dimmish. 

Many  parts  have  made  the  whole, 
Some  parts  are  much  effected  ; 

But  when  the  parts  are  whole  in  one, 
They  do  become  respected. 


The  end  is  reached,  we  trust  all  safe, 

After  quite  a  travel; 

Though  the  road  was  rough  from  place  to 
place, 

The  thread  did  not  unravel. 

J.  P.  H.,  JE. 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 

RENEWALS  ONLY— TEL.  NO.  642-3405 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 

on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 
Renewed  y^-  —  -nhf"* •»  ''™™~"*"»  recall. 


StP 


W 


A  7H 

1  /u 


QV  03 1988 


OCT  0  d  28t0 


YA  02151' 


ICLF 


GENERAL  LIBRARY  -  U.C.  BERKELEY 


